Olé!

Toreador Costume from Today’s Woman “Knit-It”, 1968

These past few days I’ve been posting patterns that could easily double as costumes. There’s Devil Bunny Baby, Year of the Tiger Woman and Pumpkin Girl on Wheels. But this Toreador outfit is an actual, honest-to-goodness vintage Halloween costume.

If you start today, you might finish knitting and crocheting the Toreador Pants, Bolero, Blouse and Hat in time for Halloween 2010. Why so long? Not only are you tackling a ton of needlework, you’ll also have to learn how to tame frogs, build buttonhole machines, and construct wire hat frames.

As the saying goes, “You mess with a bull, you get the horns.”

¡Ay, caramba!

For the complete pattern (and more snark!):

TOREADOR COSTUME

SIZES: Directions are for misses’ size 10. Changes for sizes 12, 14, 16, 18 and 20 are in parentheses. Pants width around hipline, 36’’ (38’’ – 40’’ – 42’’ – 44’’ – 46’’); length of inseam, about 29’’. Bolero width around underarms, 36’’ (38’’ – 40’’ – 42’’ – 44’’ – 46’’). Blouse width around underarms, 34’’ (36’’ – 38’’ – 40’’ – 42’’ – 44’’).

The problem with misses sizes is that misses tend to grow. If you are making this for a teenager (or are one yourself), I’d recommend going up a size. Otherwise she’ll have outgrown the costume before you finish making it.

MATERIALS: Spinnerin Mona, 7 (8 – 8 – 9 – 10 – 10) 50-gram balls main color (MC), and 1 ball contrasting color (CC) for pants; 7 (8 – 8 – 9 – 9 – 10) balls MC for bolero; and 8 (9 – 9 – 10 – 10 – 11) balls white for blouse.

Spinnerin Mona is 100 percent Virgin Wool, so hopefully you aren’t planning to wear this costume indoors. If you are, stock up on the extra-strength antiperspirant.

Knitting needles No. 3 and No. 5, or sizes you need to obtain the specified stitch gauge. Grosgrain ribbon, 1 1/2’’ wide, 2 yds. for pants, 1 yd. for blouse. Buttons, four 1’’ for pants, eight 1/2’’ and eight 1/4’’ for blouse. One set frogs for bolero. (Materials for hat are given below.)

Apparently these frogs are Kermit-free “decorative loops of braid or cord”. I’m not sure what qualified as a “set of frogs” in 1968, and searching for “vintage frogs” on Google didn’t help at all.

GAUGE: 6 sts and 8 rows = 1’’ (stockinette st on No. 5 needles).

The good news is that if you live up north, this 100 percent virgin wool costume will be perfect for Trick-or-Treating in the zero below weather.

The bad news is that the outfit is completely black, so you’ll likely end up run over by a car.

PANTS

NOTE: The length of inner leg seam is planned for 29’’. Any adjustment in length should be made in ribbing at lower edge, or between incs.

Still, if you can drag along a brightly costumed small child or two, you can use them to increase your visibility in the dark. You also won’t have to deal with as many “Aren’t you a bit too old to be Trick-or-Treating?” questions from your nosy neighbours.

RIGHT FRONT: With No. 3 needles and MC, cast on 24 sts. Work in k 1, p 1 ribbing for 3’’. Change to No. 5 needles. Beg p row, work in stockinette st (p on wrong side, k on right side). Inc’ing at beg of k rows, inc 1 st every 8th row 9 (8 – 7 – 5 – 4 – 2) times; every 6th row 15 (16 – 16 – 16 – 16 – 13) times; every 4th row 7 (5 – 6 – 8 – 9 – 17) times; every 2nd row 8 (13 – 15 – 19 – 21 – 22) times – 63 (66 – 68 – 72 – 74 – 78) sts.

Of course, you could stay on the sidewalk and collect a Candy Tax from the tykes after each house. You may also want to bring along a Picador to help you enforce this policy.

Shape Crotch: Dec’ing at beg of k rows, dec 1 st every other row 10 (8 – 8 – 8 – 8 – 8) times; every 8th row 3 (3 – 4 – 3 – 4 – 3) times; every 6th row 5 (5 – 5 – 5 – 5 – 5) times; every 4th row 1 (5 – 3 – 5 – 3 – 5) times – 44 (45 – 48 – 51 – 54 – 57) sts. Work 3 rows even, end p row. Cut yarn. Place sts on holder.

LEFT FRONT: Work to correspond to right front, working all shaping at end of k rows. Do not cut yarn, nor place sts on holder. Change to No. 3 needles. Work in k 1, p 1 ribbing across, then across sts of right front. (Note: Dec edges are in center.) Continue ribbing for 8’’. Bind off in ribbing.

LEFT BACK: With No. 3 needles and MC, cast on 24 sts. Work in k 1, p 1 ribbing for 3’’. Change to No. 5 needles. Beg p row, work in stockinette st. Inc’ing at beg of k rows, inc 1 st every 8th row 5 (4 – 3 – 3 – 2 – 1) times; every 6th row 14 (14 – 14 – 13 – 13 – 12) times; every 4th row 11 (11 – 12 – 11 – 11 – 12) times; every 2nd row 19 ( 23 – 25 – 30 – 24 – 36) times – 73 (76 – 78 – 81 – 84 – 88) sts.

Shape Crotch: Dec 1 st at back seam (same edge as inner leg shaping) every row 20 (18 – 18 – 18 – 18 – 18) times, end k row. Then dec 1 st at bef of k rows every 8th row 3 (3 – 4 – 4 – 4 – 3) times; every 6th row 5 times; every 4th row 1 (5 – 3 – 3 – 3 – 5) times – 44 (45 – 48 – 51 – 54 – 57) sts. Work 3 rows even. Cut yarn. Place sts on holder.

Of course, no one would dare accuse me of being too mature to go Trick or Treating. After all, I giggle every time I see the word “crotch” in a pattern. And “shape crotch” is even funnier!

RIGHT BACK: Work to correspond to let back, reversing all shaping. Do not cut yarn; finish ribbing same as front.

FINISHING: Sew front and back center seams tog along dec edges. Sew side and inner leg seams.

Suspenders: With No. 5 needles and CC, cast on 10 sts. Work in stockinette st for 23’’. Bind off. Fold ends of each strip to form point. Line with grosgrain ribbon; have buttonholes machine made at each end. Sew buttons on ribbing.

Hang on, while knitted suspenders are undeniably cool, I object to the sudden introduction of machine-made buttonholes. I don’t have a buttonholing machine. Heck, I don’t even own a sewing machine. And it seems like cheating to take my hand-knitted trousers to a tailor and say, “I’m going to want buttons here and here. Buttonhole me!”

I suggest using heavy-duty snaps instead, and just sewing the buttons on the outside for decoration.

BOLERO

BACK: With No. 5 needles and MC cast on 94 (100 – 106 – 112 – 118 – 124) sts. Work in stockinette st (k on right side, p on wrong side) for 7 rows), end k row. K next p row for turning ridge. Beg k row, continue in stockinette st for 1’’, end p row. Inc 1 st each edge on next row, then every inch 6 times – 108 (114 – 120 – 126 – 132 – 138) sts. Work even until 7 1/2’’ above turning ridge, or desired length to underarm, end p row.

You know, this pattern is beginning to bore me. I’ll go see if I can find some inspiring Toreador pictures on Google.

Oh my.

Shape Armholes: Bind off 6 (7 – 8 – 10 – 11 – 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each edge on next row, then every other row 5 (6 – 7 – 7 – 8 – 9) times – 84 (86 – 88 – 90 – 92 – 94) sts. Work even until 7’’ (7’’ – 7 1/2’’ – 7 1/2’’ – 8 – 8) above beg of armhole shaping, end p row.

I better tell my husband I posted that picture to help illustrate the “shape crotch” section.

Shape Shoulders: Bind off 8 (8 – 9 – 9 – 9 – 9) sts at beg of next 4 rows, 10 (10 – 9 – 9 – 10 – 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 32 (34 – 34 – 36 – 36 – 38) sts. Bind off remaining sts. Place marker at center back of neck.

LEFT FRONT: With No. 5 needles and MC, cast on 35 (38 – 41 – 44 – 47 – 50) sts. Work in stockinette st same as back for 7 rows, cast on 25 sts at end of last row for front and facing. K next p row for turning ridge.

Next Row: K to last 13 sts, with yarn in back of work sl 1 as if to k, k 12. Next Row: P across. Repeat last 2 rows until 1’’ above turning ride, end p row. Inc 1 st at beg of row, then inc every inch at same edge 6 times – 67 (70 – 73 – 76 – 79 – 82) sts. Work even until front measures same as back to underarm, end at side edge.

Shape Armhole, Neck, and Shoulder: At armhole edge, bind off 6 (7 – 8 – 10 – 11 – 12) sts, k to within 2 sts of sl st, k 2 tog, sl 1, k 2 tog, k to last st, inc 1 st in last st. Dec 1 st at armhole edge at beg of next row, then at same edge every other row 5 (6 – 7 – 7 – 8 – 9) times; at the same time, repeat dec and inc of neck shaping every 4th row 8 (8 – 8 – 9 – 10 – 10) times, every other row 7 (8 – 8 – 8 – 7 – 8) times – 39 (39 – 40 – 40 – 41 – 41) sts. Work even until armhole measures same as on back, end at armhole edge. Shape shoulder as for right back – 13 sts remain.

Back Neck Facing: Working on remaining 13 sts, continue to dec at beg and inc at end of every k row until dec edge measures same as back of neck to marker, end p row. Bind off as follows: Row 1: K 2 tog, k across. Row 2: P to last 2 sts, p 2 tog. Repeat these 2 rows until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT: With No. 5 needles and MC, cast on 35 (38 – 41 – 44 – 47 – 50) sts. Work in stockinette st same as back for 7 rows. K next purl row for turning ridge; with separate yarn cast on 25 sts to free needle, and k across cast-on sts. Next Row: K 12, with yarn in back of work sl 1 as if to k, k across. Work same as left front to underarm, reversing shaping, end at front edge.

Shape Armhole, Neck and Shoulder: Inc 1 st in fists st, work to witin 2 sts of sl st, k 2 tog, sl 1, k 2 tog, work across. Next Row: Bind off 6 (7 – 8 – 10 – 11 – 12) sts at armhole edge, work across. Complete front to correspond to left front, reversing all shaping.

Back Neck Facing: Inc in first st, k to last 2 sts, k 2 tog. P next row. Work until dec edge measures same as back of neck to marker, end p row. Bind off as follows: Row 1: K to last 2 sts, k 2 tog. Row 2: P 2 tog, p across. Repeat these 2 rows until all sts are worked off.

Okay, I need another inspiring picture. But I don’t think my marriage could survive another Toreador tuckus. Maybe I should look for something a little less modern?

Er, that’s a little too vintage even for me.

RIGHT SLEEVE: Back Section: With No. 5 needles and MC, cast on 26 (26 – 27 – 28 – 29 – 30) sts. Work in stockinette st (k on right side, p on wrong side). Dec 1 st at beg of k rows every 1 1/2’’ twice. Work even until 3 1/2’’ from beg, end k row. K next p row for turning ridge. Beg k row, work even for 1 1/2’’, end p row. Inc 1 st at beg of next row, then after 1 1/2’’ inc 1 st at beg of k row once. P 1 row. Place sts on holder.

Front Section: With No. 5 needles and MC, cast on 40 (40 – 41 – 42 – 43 – 44) sts. Working in stockinette st, dec 1 st at end of k rows every 1 1/2’’ twice. Work even until 3 1/2’’ from beg, end k row. K next p row for turning ridge. Beg with k row, work even for 1 1/2’’, end p row. Inc 1 st at end of next row, then after 1 1/2’’ inc 1 st at end of k row once. P 1 row.

To Join Sections: K across sts on needle, then k across sts on holder – 66 (66 – 68 – 70 – 72 – 74) sts. Inc 1 st each edge every 1 1/2’’ 0 (2 – 2 – 6 – 6 – 6) times, every 2’’ 4 (3 – 3 – 0 – 0 – 0) times – 74 (76 – 78 – 82 – 84 – 86) sts. Work even until thirteen inches above turning ridge, or desired length to underarm, end p row.

Shape Cap: Bind off 6 (7 – 8 – 10 – 11 – 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Work 4 rows even. Dec 1 st each edge on next row, then every 4th row 0 (0 – 2 – 2 – 4 – 4) times, every other row 14 (14 – 12 – 12 – 10 – 10) times. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Bind off remaining 24 sts.

LEFT SLEEVE: Front Section: Cast on 40 (40 – 41 – 42 – 43 – 44) sts. Working dec and inc at beg of k rows, work same as front section of sleeve. Place sts on holder.

Back Section: Cast on 26 (26 – 27 – 28 – 29 – 30) sts. Working dec and inc at end of k rows, work same as back section of right sleeve.

To Join Sections: K across sts on needle, then k across sts on holder. Complete same as right sleeve.

FINISHING: Block each section. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves in place, side and sleeve seams. Sew bound-off edges of neck facing tog; sew facing to back of neck. Turn front facings to wrong side at sl st and sew in place. Turn lower edge of sleeve along turning ridge to right side and sew straight edges of opening tog. Turn to wrong side and hem in place. Turn lower edge of jacket to wrong side at turning ridge, and hem in place. Line if desired in bright red fabric. Fasten with frog at lower edge.

That, of course, would be the loopy kind of frog. I mean, the kind of frog you use to fasten your clothing together with . . . um, its sticky little feet?

You know what? I think it’s time for another Toreador picture!

Goofy’s other interests include running with the bulls, jousting and lawn bowling.

BLOUSE

BACK: With No. 5 needles and white, cast on 102 (108 – 114 – 120 – 126 – 132) sts. Work in stockinette st (k on right side, p on wrong side). Work even until 12’’ from beg, or desired length to underarm, end p row.

Shape Armholes: Bind off 6 (6 – 7 – 8 – 9 – 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each edge on next row, then every other row 5 (7 – 8 – 9 – 10 – 11) times – 78 (80 – 82 – 84 – 86 – 88) sts. Work even until 7’’ (7’’ – 7 1/2’’ – 7 1/2’’ – 8’’ – 8’’) above beg of armhole shaping, end p row.

Shape Shoulders: Bind off 9 sts at beg of next 4 rows, 7 (8 – 8 – 9 – 9 – 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 28 (28 – 30 – 30 – 32 – 32) sts. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT: With No. 5 needles, cast on 51 (54 – 57 – 60 – 63 – 66) sts. Work in stockinette st for 1’’, end p row. Inc 1 st at beg of next row, then at same edge every inch 5 times – 57 (60 – 63 – 66 – 69 – 72) sts. Work even until front measures same as back to underarm, end at side edge.

Shape Armhole: At beg of next row bind of 6 (6 – 7 – 8 – 9 – 10) sts. Dec 1 st at same edge every other row 6 (8 – 9 – 10 – 11 – 12) times – 45 (46 – 47 – 48 – 49 – 50) sts. Work even until 5’’ (5’’ – 5 1/2’’ – 5 1/2’’ – 6’’ – 6’’) above beg of armhole shaping, end at front edge.

Shape Neck and Shoulder: Bind off 11 (11 – 12 – 12 – 13 – 13) sts at neck edge once, dec 1 st at same edge every other row 9 times; at the same time, when armhole measures same as on back, shape shoulder as for right back.

RIGHT FRONT: Work to correspond to left front, reversing all shaping.

SLEEVES: With No. 5 needles, cast on 42 (42 – 46 – 46 – 50 – 50) sts. Work in stockinette st for 1/2’’, end p row. Inc 1 st each edge on next row, then every inch 11 (11 – 11 – 10 – 10 – 9) times, ever 1/2’’ 2 (3 – 3 – 5 – 5 – 7) times – 70 (72 – 76 – 78 – 82 – 84) sts. Work even until 15’’ from beg, or desired length to underarm, end k row.

Shape Cap: Bind off 6 (6 – 7 – 8 – 9 – 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each edge on 4th row 0 (0 – 0 – 0 – 1 – 1) time, every other row 16 (17 – 18 – 18 – 18 – 18) times – 26 sts. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Bind off remaining 18 sts.

Hey look, it’s Rudolph Valentino! He can come Trick-or-Treating with me any time.

COLLAR: Make 2. With No. 5 needles, cast on 86 (86 – 90 – 90 – 94 – 94) sts. Work in stockinette st for 3’’, end p row.

Shape Inner Edge: K 30 sts, join another ball of yarn, bind off center 26 (26 – 30 – 30 – 34 – 34) sts, work across. Working both sides, at each inner edge bind off 5 sts every other row 6 times.

What do you mean he’s dead?

FRONT RUFFLE: With No. 5 needles, cast on 120 sts. K 1row, p 1 row for 4 rows. Inc 1 st in each st on next row. P 1 row. Inc 1 st in each st on next row. * Work 3/4’’, end p row. Next Row: Inc 1 st in every 4th st across row. Repeat from * once. Work even until ruffle measures 5’’ from beg. Bind off.

SIDE RUFFLES: Make 2. With No. 5 needles, cast on 24 sts. K 1 row, p 1 row for 4 rows. Inc 1 st in each st on next row. P 1 row. Inc 1 st in each st on next row. Work 1/2’’, end p row. Inc 1 st in every 4th st across row. Work until 3’’ from beg. Bind off.

RUFFLES AT SLEEVE EDGES: Make 2. With No. 5 needles, cast on 44 (44 – 48 – 48 – 52 – 52) sts. Work same as side ruffle.

Under Ruffle of Sleeve Edge: Turn first 3 rows of top ruffle to right side (so that 4th row is top of fold and p side is facing out). Along fold, pick up and k 44 (44 – 48 – 48 – 52 – 52) sts. Work same as top ruffle.

FINISHING: Block each section. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves in place; sew side and sleeve seams. Sew collar tog along side and bound-off edges. Sew collar to blouse with ends of collar at front edges. Work 1 row sc along edges of body, collar, sleeves and outer edges of ruffles. Face front edges with grosgrain ribbon. Place markers for 8 buttonholes evenly spaced on right front edge, beg 1/2’’ above lower edge and end 1/2’’below collar. Have buttonholes machine made.

Oh boy, I must be getting tired. I just read that last line as “Make a buttonholes machine,” and for a moment I thought “What? Not only do I have to know how to knit, crochet, sew and handle frogs, I have to be a machinist, too?”

Then again, if you really want to make a buttonhole machine, I won’t stand in your way. A word of warning, however, it’ll take you five years and your life’s savings.

Mark each side edge of front ruffle 1 1/2’’ above cast-on row. Fold cast-on edge of front ruffle in half with k side tog. Tack edge tog at markers. Allowing a space for first buttonhole under tacked edge, sew ruffle tog along cast-on edge leaving space for 3 more buttonholes, to button ruffle to blouse.

Side Ruffle: Sew tog same as front ruffle beg 1/2’’ along side edge. Do not leave buttonhole openings. Sew 4 buttons to seam on wrong side and button to side of sleeve through work.

Sleeve Edge: Overlap sleeve on top of ruffle 1/2’’ and sew in place.

 

Now that’s an inspiring picture! Who needs a fussy, ruffled blouse? All I need is an airplane ticket to Spain , a rampaging bull, and a Maidenform bra!

On second thought, maybe I’ll skip the rampaging bull and go with this one instead.

HAT

MATERIALS: Spinnerin Marvel Twist Wash Fit, 1 4-oz. skein main color (MC); and Allround Wash Fit, 1 2-oz. skein contrasting color (CC). Knitting needles No. 5. Crochet hook side H. Commercial hat frame – brim, 3 3/4’’ wide; crown, 4 1/2’’ deep. Large-eyed bead.

A bead with large Bambi eyes will probably be the simplest item to track down on this shopping list. Spinnerin Marvel Twist is long gone, so I have no idea of its weight or composition. Taking a wild guess, I’d say it’s some kind of straw-like fiber. And good luck finding a commercial hat frame at your local craft shop. Although, you can always make your own!

CROWN: With crochet hook and MC, ch 4, join with sl st to form ring. Ch 1. Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in ring, join in first st. Ch 3. Mark beg of each rnd. Rnd 2: 2 hdc in joining, 2 hdc in eeach of next 7 sc, join in first hdc – 16 hdc. Ch 3. Rnd 3: Work 2 hdc in each of 16 hdc, join – 32 hdc. Ch 3. Rnd 4: Work 2 hdc in every other hdc, join – 48 hdc. Ch 3. Rnd 5: Work hdc in every 3rd hdc, join – 64 hdc. Ch 3.

Typo Alert! Rnd 5 should almost certainly read “Work 2 hdc in every 3rd hdc.” Otherwise, you certainly won’t have 64 hdc by the end of the round.

Continue in this manner, having 1 st more between incs in each rnd, until crown measures 7’’ in diameter. Work even in hdc (no further inc) for 4 1/2’’ for side of crown.

Brim: Beg incs again, having 1 more st between incs than on last rnd worked before even rnds of side. Work inc rnds until brim measures 3 3/4’’. Next 2 Rnds: Work 1 sc in each st, join in first sc. Cut yarn leaving a long end.

FINISHING: Thread end into tapestry needle and work a running st around edge. Place work over frame, then draw yarn tightly and fasten off.

Band: With No. 5 needles and CC, cast on 10 sts. Work in stockinette st (k on right side, p on wrong side) for 22’’. Bind off. Sew ends tog and place around crown of hat. With 2 strands CC, crochet a ch to measure 6’’. Pull ch under band and trim each end with a tassel 3’’ long when completed. Tack in place at top of band, then at lower edge of band, about 1’’ over.

Tie: With 2 strands MC, crochet a chain to measure 42’’; knot each end and tack at opposite sides on inner edge of brim. Thread looped end through bead and use for fastening as shown.

Wait, I just realized that the empowered-by-her-Maidenform bra woman didn’t spend any of her valuable Maidenform time on handmaking her Toreador costume.

Do we dare follow her lead and bullfight in store bought duds?

Sure we’ll miss out on that sense of accomplishment that only comes from making one’s own Halloween costume. But – just think! – with all the time we’ll save, we can become real bullfighters!

Click here for the printable pattern.