Sew Easy!

Flower Duet from McCall’s Needlework and Crafts, Spring-Summer 1970

Your local theatre is holding auditions for Godspell, and you’re desperate for your chance to belt out Day by Day somewhere other than in the shower. But last year you lost the part of Mary Magdalene in Jesus Christ, Superstar to Shelley, who’s not even an alto! Rumour has it that she’s sleeping with the director Mike. So, how can you guarantee that this time, you’re the one singing songs of love to the big J.C.?

Why, this genuine 1970s sexy shift is sure to turn Mike’s head! If only to stare in wonderment at a dress that can simultaneously make any woman look flat-chested and lumpy in the chassis.

Just don’t forget your chunky jewelry, preferably made from the bones of some endangered animal, for a truly authentic feel. Plus, you can use it to knock out Shelley, and then you can tie her up with your matching daisy scarf. It’s not what Jesus would do, but he never had to deal with the cutthroat business that is musical theatre today.



For the complete pattern (and more snark!):

FLOWER DUET

The last time I checked a duet, even a flowery one, involved two people or musical instruments. Does this mean that somewhere out there is a matching men’s outfit?

Flower-striped shift with its own scarf alternates bands of chain stitch “daisies,” narrow rows of chain loops. Easy to crochet of Red Heart Wintuk Sport Yarn. In 8-14.

Hmm... I’m suspicious of any garment this large that claims to be “easy to crochet”, especially when it’s made of sport weight yarn. That’s a heck of a lot of teeny tiny stitches. So if it really is easy to crochet, odds are it’s going to be desperately tedious to crochet.

On the other hand, all those colourful “daisies”might just be enough to keep you from wanting to poke your eyes out with your crochet hooks, just to relieve the sheer boredom. Think of it as flower power, man.

SIZES: Directions for small size (8-10). Changes for medium size (12-14) and large size (16-18) are in parentheses.
Blocked Bust Size: 35’’ (38 ½’’-42’’).
For body measurements, see page 28.

And if your body measurements don’t all conveniently fall down one column – if you have, say, a Size 12 Bust and Size 16 Hips – then don’t even think about making this pattern.

Clearly, you don’t deserve pretty clothes. It’s nothing but sackcloth for you!

MATERIALS: Coats & Clark’s “Red Heart” Wintuk Sport Yarn, 2 (3-3) 2 oz. skeins Baby Aqua (A), 1 skein each of Grape (B), Bottle Green (C), Violet (D), Apple Green (E), Camel (F) and Royal Blue (G). Crochet hook size E. (Or English size 11.) Button. Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 4 ch-lps = 3 ½’’; 11 ch-lp rows = 2’’; each complete motif = 1 ¾’’ square. See page 24.

Take my word for it, page 24 is spectacularly unhelpful. Unless you feel like being hectored about the importance of gauge, while staring at a grainy picture of a stocking stitch square.

You do?

Well if that’s your bag, I won’t judge. You can find a scan of “YOU MUST BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE” over in the Happy Kwanzaa post.

COMPLETE MOTIF: Beg at center ch 5. Join with a sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, * sc in ring, ch 9, sc in ring (corner lp made), ch 7, repeat from * 3 times. Join with a sl st in first sc – 8 lps. End off.

HALF MOTIF: Beg at center, ch 5. Join with a sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in ring, * ch 7, sc in ring, ch 9, sc in ring, repeat from * once, ch 7 sc in ring – 5 lps. End off.

DRESS: BACK: Make 17 (18-20) complete motifs with A, 8 (9-10) complete motifs with B, C, D, E, F, and G. Make 2 half motifs with F (G-C) and D. Working from right to left, motifs are joined in following sequence:
Row 1 (lower edge): Complete Motifs: * B, E, D, A, F, G, C, A, repeat from * until 11 (12-13) complete motifs are joined. (See First Motif Band, below, for how to join.)

Spontaneity is not allowed! Each Motif MUST be joined in the proper colour sequence.

Row 2: Half motif D, then complete motif A, F, G, C, A, repeat from * on row 1 until 9 (10-11) complete motifs are joined, end half motif F (G-C).
Row 3: Complete Motifs: G, C, A, then repeat from * on row 1 until 9 (10-11) motifs are joined.
Row 4: Complete Motifs: A, then work from * on row 1 until 9 (10-11) motifs are joined.
Row 5: Complete Motifs: E, D, A, F, G, C, A, then work from * on row 1 until 9 (10-11) motifs are joined.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Complete Motif: C, A, then work from * on row 1 until 7 (8-9) motifs are joined.
First Motif Band (lower band): From right side, arrange motifs in color sequence as on row 1. With large-eyed needle and matching colors, sew center of a ch-7 lp on first motif to center of a ch-7 lp on 2nd motif. End off. * Sk 3 lps on last motif joined, sew center of next ch-7 lp to center of a ch-7 lp on next motif. End off. Repeat from * until 11 (12-13) motifs are joined.

Wait, after making a total of 69 (76-84) Motifs, we now have to sew them all together? Individually?

I thought this was a crochet pattern! If I wanted to sew a 1970s daisy dress, I would. I already have the vintage material handy.

Okay, so technically that’s vintage daisy wallpaper. So what? Are you saying you’re too good for a wallpaper dress?

First Chain Loop Band: Row 1: Working along upper edge of joined motifs, from right side, sk 2 lps preceding joined lp on first motif, join A to 3rd lp from joining (corner lp), sc in same lp, (ch 3, sc in next lp on same motif) twice, * sc in next free corner lp on next motif, (ch 3, sc in next lp on same motif) twice. Repeat from * across – 22 (24-26) ch-3 lps. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in first sc, * ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in each of next 2 sc, repeat from * across, end (ch 3, sc in next sc) twice. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. End off. Turn.
Row 4: Join B in first sc, sc in same sc, * ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in each of next 2 sc, repeat from * across, end (ch 3, sc in next sc) twice. End off. Turn.
Row 5: With A, repeat row 4.
Row 6: With C, repeat row 4.
Row 7: Join A in first sc, sc in same sc, ch 1, sc in next sc (dec made), * ch 3, sc in each of next 2 sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat from * across, end ch 1, sc in last sc (dec made). Ch 1, turn.
Row 8: Sc in each of first 2 sc, * ch 3, sc in each of next 2 sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat fromo * across, end ch 3, sc in each of last 2 sc – 20 (22-24) ch-lps. Ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Sk first sc, sc in next sc, work in pat across, end ch 3, sk next sc, sc in last sc. End off.

So, when exactly does the “easy-to-crochet” part of this pattern begin?

2nd Motif Band: From right side, arrange motifs in color sequence as on row 2. Sk first 2 ch-lps on half D motif, sew next ch-7 lp to a ch-7 lp of next motif. End off. Continue to join motifs same as for first motif band until 9 ½’’ (10 ½’’-11 ½’’) motifs have been joined; sk 3 lps on last motif, sew next ch-lp to 3rd lp on F (G-C) half motif. Place 2nd motif band along top edge of last row of last Chain Loop Band, having motifs directly above motifs of previous Motif Band. With A (joining 1 lp to each sc), sew the 2 lps along lower edge of first half motif to first 2 sc on Chain Loop Band. Continue to sew 3 free lps of each motif to each corresponding sc on Chain Loop Band; sew 2 lps of last half motif to each of last 2 sc.
2nd Chain Loop Band: Row 1: Working along upper edge of last motif band, from right side, join A to first lp on half motif, sc in same lp, ch 3, sc in next lp on half motif, * sc in next corner lp on next motif, (ch 3, sc in next lp on same motif) twice. Repeat from * across, end last repeat ch 3, sc in last lp on last half motif – 20 (22-24) ch-lps. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2-9: Repeat rows 2-9 of First Chain Loop Band, ending 18 (20-22) ch-lps on last row.

On the plus side, I’m definitely not bored!

3rd Motif Band: Working same as for First Motif Band, work in color sequence as for row 3. Sew 3 free lps of each motif to corresponding sc on last row of last Chain Loop Band.
3rd Chain Loop Band: Work same as rows 1-6 for First Chain Loop Band. End off. Turn.
Row 7: With A, work same as row 4. Do not end off. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 8 and 9: Repeat row 2. End off.
4th Motif Band: Repeat 3rd Motif Band, working color sequence row 4.
4th Chain Loop Band: Repeat 3rd Chain Loop Band.
5th Motif Band: Repeat 3rd Motif Band, working color sequence row 5.
5th Chain Loop Band: Work same as rows 1-4 on First Chain Loop Band. End off. Turn.
Row 5: Join A in first st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sc (inc made), ch 3, sc in next sc, work in pat across, end (sc, ch 1, sc) in last sc (inc made). End off. Turn.
Row 6: Join C in first sc, sc in same sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, work in pat across to within last 2 sc, end sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in last sc – 20 (22-24) ch-lps. End; turn.
Row 7: Join A in first sc, sc in same sc, ch 3, 2 sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, work in pat across to within last 2 sc, end 2 sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 8 and 9: Sc in first sc, * ch 3, sc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat from * across. End off.

If this dress isn’t working out for you, there are always other – easier – options for achieving that vintage knitwear look.

Just look at Cate Blanchett – she’s cleverly stolen the blanket off her Nana’s rocking chair and has transformed it into the very height of fashion.

6th Motif Band: Repeat 2nd Motif Band, working color sequence row 6.
6th Chain Loop Band: Work same as rows 1-3 on 2nd Chain Loop Band. End off. Turn.
Shape Armhole: Row 1: Sk first 2 ch-lps on last row, join B in next sc, sc in same sc, * ch 3, sc in each of next 2 sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, repeat form * to within last 2 ch-lps – 16 (18-20) ch-lps. End; turn.
Row 2: Join A to center ch of first ch-lp, sc in same ch, ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sc, work in pat to within last ch-lp, ch 1, sc in center ch of last lp. End off. Turn.
Row 3: Join C in first sc, sc in same sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, work in pat across, end sc in each of last 3 sc – 14 (16-18) ch-lps. End off. Turn.
Row 4: Sk first 2 sc, join A in next sc, sc in same sc, work in pat to within 1 ch-lp of end, end ch-3, sc in next sc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat row 2 of First Chain Loop Band. End off.
7th Motif Band: Repeat Third Motif Band, working color sequence row 7.

In the spirit of recycling, you could also make your new dress out of some rope you happened to find lying around in the garden shed.

Top Chain Loop Band: With 14 (16-18) ch-lps, work rows 1-3 as for first Chain Loop Band. End off. Turn.
Divide for Back Opening: Row 1: Join B in first sc, sc in same sc, work in pat until 7 (8-9) ch-lps are completed. End off, turn each row.
Row 2: Join A in first sc, sc in same sc, work in pat across. * Repeat last row, working 1 row each of C, A, B, A, repeat from * until armhole measures 5’’ (6’’-6 ½’’) above first row of armhole shaping, end arm side.
Shape Neck: Work across 5 (5-6) ch lps. Turn.
Row 2: Join next color in center ch of first ch-lp, ch 1, sc in next sc, finish row. Turn.
Row 3: Join next color in first sc, work in pat to within last ch-3 lp, ch-3, sk next sc, sc in last sc – 4 (4-5) ch-lps.
Rows 4 and 5: Repeat rows 2 and 3 – 3 (3-4) ch-lps. Keeping color sequence as established, work even until piece measures 6 ½’’ (7 ½’’-8’’) above first row of armhole shaping. End off. Join B in same st as last sc of first row of back opening. Work same as for first side of back opening, reversing shaping.
Lower Edge Chain Loop Band: Working along lower edge of First Motif Band, work same as rows 1-4 on First Chain Loop Band.
Rows 5-7: Work same as rows 5-7 on 5th Chain Loop Band – 24 (26-28) chain loops. Working in same color sequence as Top Chain Loop Band, work even until piece measures 24 ½’’ (25 ½’’-26 ½’’) from underarm, or 1 ½’’ less than desired dress length, end with a B or C row. With A, work 3 rows even. End off. Dress will be blocked 1’’ longer.
Side Edging: Row 1: From right side, join A to end st at left armhole edge. Working down side edge, * sc in end st of each row to next motif band, ch 3, sc in ring on half motif or in free lp on a complete motif, ch 3, sc in end st of next ch-lp row, repeat from * across side edge, end sc in end st of each row along Lower Edge Chain Loop Band. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in each sc and in each ch across. End off. Beg at lower edge, work same edging on other side edge.

And that, my dears, is the end of the Back of the dress. Guess what? You get to do it all over again for the Front!

Which means you’d better get started making another 69 (76-84) Motifs. And sewing them together individually.

That’d better not be crying I hear. Remember, this is an “easy to crochet” project!

FRONT: Work same as back until end of 7th Motif Band.
Top Chain Loop Band: With 14 (16-18) ch-lps, work rows 1-3 as for First Chain Loop Band. * Working in pat as established, work 1 row each of B, A, C, A, repeat from * until armhole is 4 ½’’ (5 ½’’-6’’) above first row of arm shaping.
Shape Neck: Keeping to color sequence as established, work across 5 (5-6) ch-lps. End off. Turn.
Row 2: Join next color in center ch of first ch-lp, ch 1, sc in next sc, finish row. End off. Turn. Complete as for first side of back neck shaping. Sk next 4 (6-6) free ch-lps on last long row, join needed color in next sc, work same as for first side, reversing shaping.
Lower Edge Chain Loop Band: Work same as for back.
Side Edging:From right side, join A to end st at right armhole edge. Work same as for Back. Work same edging on other side edge.

FINISHING: Block pieces (see page 27), stretching dress 1’’ in length. Weave side and shoulder seams.

No, I am not transcribing page 27 for you. If you don’t know how to block, google it!

Although you may want to be more specific in your choice of search terms.

Neck Edge: Row 1: From right side, beg at top of back opening, with A, sc around neck edge, easing in slightly. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2-4: Sc in each sc around. Ch 1, turn. At end of row 4, ch 5 for button lp, sk last 3 rows made, sl st in end st of next row on back opening. End off.
Armhole Edge: Rnd 1: From right side, beg at side seam, with A, * sc evenly to next motif, ch 3, sc in next free lp, ch 3, sc in end st of next ch-lp row. Repeat from * once, sc along remainder of armhole edge, keeping work flat. Join with a sl st to first st. Ch 2, turn each rnd.
Rnd 2: Sc in each sc and in each ch.
Rnds 3 and 4: Sc in each sc. End.

Actually, this is not the end. And I don’t mean the lining that wasn’t mentioned in the pattern, but which will be necessary to sew into this dress to make it conform to local decency bylaws. No, I mean there’s another 80 Motifs just waiting to be made and then painstakingly sewn together.

Yay!

STOLE: Following directions for Complete Motif make 20 A motifs, 10 motifs each of B, C, D, E, F and G – 80 motifs.
First Motif Band: From right side, arrange motifs in color sequence same as for row 1 on back of dress. Join same as for First Motif Band on back until 40 motifs are joined.
First Chain Loop Band: Work same as rows 1-6 on First Chain Loop Band on back, then join A and repeat rows 3-6 once; join A and work 3 rows. End off.
2nd Motif Band: Working same as for First Motif Band, beg with a D motif, work in color sequence as for First Motif Band until 40 motifs are joined. Sew 3 free lps of each motif to corresponding sc on last row of Chain Loop Band.
Edging: From right side, work rows 1-3 same as First Chain Loop Band on each long side of stole.
End Edge: With A, sc in end st at short edge. Working across edge, (sc in end st of each row to motif band, ch 3, sc in free lp on motif, ch 3) twice, sc in end st of each row to end. End off. Work same edge on other end.

FINISHING: Block. Cut 6 15’’ strands of yarn for each fringe. Knot on ends.

And there you go, all done! Wasn’t that easy to make?

Now, repeat after me...

Click here for the printable pattern.